CITY SNAPSHOT

• 15.8 million residents

• 570,000 hotel beds

• 3 million cars

• 66,000 taxis

• 1,000 new cars hit the streets each day

GETTING AROUND

Walking distances are greater than they seem on the map. The subway is quick and easy. Taxis are plentiful and super cheap -- the average ride costs less than $3 -- though you must be sure to have your destination written in Chinese. Rush hour is a nightmare of L.A. proportions.

Bicycles are another option; most streets have bicycle lanes, and the number of locals on bikes has dropped dramatically. But beware of the Left Turn Tangle; the contest for driving rights between cars, trucks and bikes isn't pretty.

WHERE TO STAY

Location matters; your trip will be easiest if you're near a subway stop.

Nearly all international luxury chains now have hotels in Beijing, including Ritz-Carlton, Raffles, Regent and Kempinski.

A few other options:

• Red Capital Residence: Five cozy rooms in an historic hutong house, opened by American Laurence Brahm. Friendly and fabulously atmospheric; best for savvy travelers who don't need day tours. www.redcapitalclub.com.cn; (011-86) 10-8401-8886. Doubles $190; singles $150. Think about overnighting at Red Capital Ranch, near the Mutianyu portion of The Great Wall.

• Crowne Plaza Beijing: All the modern touches in the Wangfujing shopping district, within walking distance of the Forbidden City. Internet specials from about $120. 800-496-7621; www.crowneplaza.com.

• Jianguo: This slightly older hotel in the heart of the embassy area has been redone with stylish, comfortable rooms and a soothing garden courtyard. Steps from an subway stop. Internet specials from about $120. www.hoteljianguo.com; (011-86-10) 6500-2233.

• Xinamo Youth Hostel: Friendly budget lodgings in an historic hutong district. The subway is a 15 minute walk, so you'll want to cab it. From about $27 double with private bath; single rooms available. (011-86-10) 8403-6146; fax (011-86-10) 6403-4152; e-mail xmqnjd@163.com; book through www.fab-hotels.com (look for 9 Dragon House).

BEIJING HIGHLIGHTS

The Forbidden City / Tiananmen Square: Built for a highly ritualistic feudal society, the Forbidden City was the home to the Emperor and his family, hundreds of concubines and eunuchs. With a whiff of imagination, you can envision the complex ceremonies and sweeping brocade robes of the court that took place in the vast courtyards of the world's largest palace, completed in the 1400s.

Organized tours allot two hours for a Forbidden City visit; on your own, you'll want at least that much time. Don't bother with the audio guide here or at other area sites; the info is basic and the electronic triggers are irritating at best.

Allow time for wandering around the Meridian Gate and Tiananmen Square just to watch the people, who are gracious, welcoming and may want to practice their English. Most people are happy to have their photos taken; show them the digital image and, if they speak English, offer to send them a copy by e-mail. It's a 15-minute walk from here to the new National Theater for the Performing Arts; try to stroll by if you aren't attending a performance there.

The Great Wall: Built over a 2,000-year-period, the Great Wall is a series of bulwarks rather than one continuous fortification. Still, it's one of man's most awe-inspiring accomplishments, adding to a total length of around 4,000 miles. It failed as a protection device; instead of breaching the wall, invaders bribed underpaid guards. As a tourist attraction, though, it's the top draw -- which can make the section near Bedaling, closest to Beijing, a mob scene.